Awesome Journey to Borobudur
Day 40, Grand Asia 2017
Friday, Nov. 10, 2017 – Semarang, Java, Indonesia
Add Borobudur to the Great Wall of China on the list of massive world wonders that must be seen in person to truly appreciate them. You could also add it to the list of must-see destinations that aren’t convenient to cruise ports. Our all-day excursion provided some harrowing traffic moments during the two-hour-plus drive from the port of Semarang in addition to the wondrous site.
Borobudur is the world’s largest Buddhist structure, a temple in central Java that dates back to the 8th Century. It is constructed of dark grey andesite stone, with six square platforms topped by three round platforms. It is simply massive.
Steep staircases connect each platform, only occasionally with added handrails. The monument features 2,672 relief panels depicting the past lives of Buddha and his enlightenment, as well as 504 Buddha statues on the square platforms and 72 Buddha statues inside the perforated stupas (domes) near the top.
We arrived shortly after noon. After walking around part of the base, we started up the structure as our guide explained each new section. Some in the group chose to wait at the base, some only went part way and others went to the top. For about 50,000 Indonesian rupiah, (less than $5) local men would follow along shading visitors with an umbrella while waving a fan at our necks. It is the beginning of the rainy season, when mornings are hot and humid. To add to the lack of comfort, the dark stone absorbs and radiates the heat.
Fortunately, our guide knew the weather patterns and scheduled our temple visit before our buffet lunch, which was under a beautiful wooden platform near the base of the monument. Other groups had lunch first, and the afternoon rain arrived by the time they went to the temple. Our Cruise Specialist host generously added cold Indonesian beer to the choice of lunchtime beverages, a most welcome treat.
On the way to Borobudur, we took a side trip for a 30-minute ride on an old steam train through rice paddies and fish farms. I set my camera on its fastest shutter speed and photographed the journey from the platform between two train cars.
We passed waving children, farmers working in the rice fields, small huts on stilts over fishponds and even farmers harvesting black mud from the bottom of the ponds (used as fertilizer).
Some previous Borobudur visitors on our ship said the highlight of the entire excursion might be the bus ride there and back. New toll roads took us through the early part of the journey, but we soon turned onto busy two-lane roads. In order to guarantee the fastest trip possible, the tour organizers hire police escorts, who lead and follow with sirens blasting the entire journey.
The idea is to “sweep” away the traffic. This is accomplished by essentially traveling in the opposite lane of traffic coming, forcing motorbikes, cars, buses and large trucks to pull over onto the shoulder to let us through their lane. The result is that those sitting in the front of the tour bus continually watch us hurl into oncoming traffic, which always seems to part just in time. We pass by with only inches to spare.
Our bus arrived back at the ship more than an hour after the “all aboard” deadline, but there were at least eight buses behind us so we knew the ship would wait. The rain was coming down in sheets and the bus pulled right up to the gangway, where ship staff, officers and even the hotel manager were waiting with umbrellas to welcome us back.
Many of the Indonesian crewmembers of the Amsterdam hail from Java, and about a thousand family members traveled to Semarang to visit. Some of the crewmembers haven’t seen their spouses, children and parents for nine months, so it is an exciting occasion. Passengers in almost every cabin on our hallway had left a note asking that our cabin stewards skip cleaning cabins today so they would have more time with their families. When we returned, we heard touching stories about the reunions.
Tonight at dinner I sent back a meal for the first time. Each night on the grand cruise features a different menu, but every night also has the choice of fish, New York strip steak and roasted chicken. Remembering that the filet mignon on surf-and-turf night was outstanding, I opted for the steak. Alas, I couldn’t even cut it with a steak knife. My dining steward quickly brought me the salmon instead, and at least four members of the dining staff came by to apologize. One of the managers said the steak delivery in Hong Kong was to blame and suggested waiting to order strip steak again until we get a new delivery in Sydney. No worries – there are plenty of other options and I won’t go hungry.
