Finding Time to Relax in Busy Auckland
Days 58-59, Grand World Voyage 2020
Monday & Tuesday, March 2-3, 2020; Auckland, New Zealand
There is so much to see and do in Auckland, but we found ourselves thoroughly enjoying a lazy afternoon — watching America’s Cup yachts come and go from the Viaduct Harbor while eating seafood chowder and steamed New Zealand mussels. Of course we also enjoyed New Zealand beer (me) and cider (Elaine).
It has been about two and a half years since I was in Auckland, and the road construction has multiplied. The city is busy putting a train tunnel underground between our Queens Wharf pier and the city. At frequent crosswalks guards use barriers to keep pedestrians back until we have the right of way. I can’t imagine this in New York City. But it seems to work well here.
In addition to the road construction, a building boom has overtaken the city. Building cranes surround new skyscrapers throughout the city. Our bus tour yesterday of downtown was more like a tour of traffic lights, as we inched our way around various historic landmarks and neighborhoods. Anything more than 100 years old here is considered historic (which reminds me of home in Texas).
Auckland is easy to explore on your own, and that is what I did on my first visit in 2017. We had sunny skies then, but this time it’s mostly cloudy. However, the rain held off. We’ve been lucky that way so far on this cruise.
It’s only a few blocks from our pier to the New Zealand Maritime Museum, which includes exhibits of early Polynesian explorers and celebrates the 1995 New Zealand victory in the America’s Cup yacht race. I thought we would get there again this trip, but we didn’t make it. I had visited the museum before, and there’s always next time.
Because we are here overnight, we decided to get beyond downtown on our first day. Devonport, a historic and picturesque village across the bay, was our destination. After touring the city highlights, our excursion bus crossed the Auckland harbor bridge and headed to the northern suburbs. This is a city built on ancient volcanoes, and our guide pointed out the sunken craters of several. One is now a freshwater lake with dozens of black swans.
Devonport is full of cottages, bungalows and villas built during several waves in the early 20th century. These small homes are million-dollar properties now, as a quick ferry ride makes for a short commute to downtown Auckland.
We could have simply taken the ferry to Devonport on our own, but our tour took us to the top of two volcanic hills in the city, overlooking the entrance to Auckland harbor. A “disappearing” gun (designed to disappear after firing an 8-inch shell) was part of the defenses against a feared Russian naval invasion more than a century ago that never occurred. In a creative move, the air vent hoods for tunnels running through the hills are painted to resemble mushrooms.
After obtaining the return ferry tickets that were part of our tour package, we abandoned the group at the top of Devonport’s main shopping street and window-shopped our way down. We spent some time admiring the New Zealand fabrics in a quilt shop, and I bought a few “fat quarters,” as small fabric pieces are called. Hey, if we should get quarantined to our cabin at some point, I want to make sure I have plenty of projects to keep me busy!
Elaine is a big fan of English and Irish pubs, so we stopped at one so she could have her fix of seafood chowder and a cold cider. I had the fish and chips with a cold local beer.
On our second day in Auckland we walked up Queen Street to browse some more, and then headed to the harbor for our second pub lunch. (I’m going to have to insist on some more variety when we get to Australia.) Despite the hills, bikes are popular here – and office buildings even provide visitor bike parking. Unlike in Chicago, some of the scooter rentals even include helmets.
We passed by Auckland’s iconic Sky Tower, where not only can you go to the top for stunning city views, but you also can bungee jump. Neither of us gave it a second of consideration, and not just because it costs NZ$225 (US$145).
The day had started out with the threat of rain and cooler temperatures, but by lunchtime the sun was occasionally out and we were wishing we hadn’t worn dark jeans. It was still nice to eat on the patio, but only in the shade of an umbrella.
Happy to see your sketch at the end of this story!
I remember the construction in 2017, but it was a nice area to roam around.
A few more stops in Australia sound fun, but sorry you won’t make it India and Sri Lanka this time. Maybe there’ll be more fun surprises. Whatever the case, I’m sure you’ll enjoy it.
I am so enjoying your posts and sketches. We had to cancel out on this cruise and are sorry to miss but your blog is letting us go vicariously – THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH. The info on the alternate ports is very interesting. If you do get a chance to see the Taj Mahal try and get to the small museum that is inside the grounds. As you come in the entrance and go toward the Taj it is about half way down and on the left. Also try and get to the other side of the river and look at the Taj from that side and see the foundation of the Taj that Shah Jahan was building for himself before he busted the treasury. If they take you to the Red Fort in Agra you get to see the apartment he lived in for the last years of his life after his sons deposed him. He could see the Taj but he never got to visit it again until he was buried there. Also be prepared for very serious security – EVERYONE is patted down. The men and women have separate lines with women on the women’s side but they are very serious and professional about their job. Safe sailing
Lynne, we won’t get to Mumbai or Agra, but I will save your recommendations, as Mumbai is a scheduled port on next year’s cruise. Thanks for taking the time to give me so much detail.
Being snarky, I hope you enjoyed MUSSELS and weren’t chowing down on a well-toned Kiwi!
We love you for your snarkiness. Correction made. Wish I could blame it on autocorrect.
i was worried since no
post from you for a few days. I have friends on ur cruise and am enjoying seeing YOUR posts and pics. ???
Thanks! I do get behind somewhat in posting. I’m torn between rushing to do them and taking some time to do other things as well. I’m glad you enjoy following along.