Conflict Islands Truly are Paradise in the Coral Sea

Day 30, South Pacific, Australia and New Zealand Cruise

Tuesday, Nov. 1, 2022; Conflict Islands, Papua New Guinea, Coral Sea.

If your idea of paradise is almost endless light sand beaches shaded by tall palms and other tropical trees, surrounded by coral reefs, then the Conflict Islands should be on your short list.

These 21 islands are named after the HMS Conflict, not an actual battle or war. Australian businessman Ian Gowrie-Smith purchased the island group about 20 years ago from an “octogenarian Hawaiian,” as he describes the former owner. Gowrie-Smith was taken with the beauty, especially under water, but disturbed by practices such as harvesting shark fins and turtle eggs. He created the Conflict Islands Conservation Initiative and has worked with local residents to help protect the turtles, marine life and coral reefs.

Our itinerary called for a day at one of the larger of the islands, but at the last minute our captain announced we would have a bonus day. As the ship used its engines and thrusters to hold its position (too deep to anchor), we tendered ashore to a long floating dock and a handful of huts offering food, beach toys and a seemingly endless expanse of beach.

I enjoyed a couple of hours in a (complimentary) beach recliner under the shade, sketching, reading and dozing to the sound of small waves lapping on the shore.

On our second — and planned — day, I snorkeled from a floating platform. Some fellow snorkelers raved about the coral and marine life, but I didn’t find it lived up to my distant memories from Cozumel. Could be my memory that was faulty, and really, there was an amazing variety of coral, with a number of small fish swimming by. I saw a large fish off in the distance, but too far for identification. As you can tell by my descriptions here (coral, fish, etc.), I am not an expert on marine life.

My sister sent me off on this trip with her underwater camera, but I didn’t have great success taking pictures. They all have a blue hue and don’t really reflect what I saw. After fiddling with it for a while, I started to feel a bit seasick, so retreated to the platform to await one of the continual boats back to shore.

The island group owner, Gowrie-Smith, joined us on the ship for a couple of days and gave a standing-room only presentation. He described how he came to own the islands and become an ardent environmentalist. His underwater videos showed that scuba divers with expensive underwater cameras are rewarded with the best views. He trains and employs local Papua New Guineans to be part of his ranger force to protect the turtle hatcheries and marine life.

Perhaps the current “conflict” surrounding the islands has to do with their future ownership. Gowrie-Smith is ready to pass them on. The Chinese are eager to buy the islands, but he says he will not sell to them, and he would like the Australian government to become more involved to protect the country’s geopolitical interests. Meanwhile, Papua New Guinea leaders are embroiled in discussions about whether foreign ownership should be allowed at all.

A Disappointing Dinner

Many people commented on the outstanding Rudi’s Sel de Mer menu I posted in my last blog. It was a celebratory dinner for escaping covid isolation. The evening started with a wonderful bowl of bouillabaisse. But I’m sorry to say the entrée was a huge disappointment.

The Dover sole, ordered per the suggestion of a nearby diner and my waiter, came whole with a table-side deboning planned. Unfortunately, it didn’t go well. The waiter could not get the bone out. He finally took it back to the kitchen and returned a few minutes later to try again. Once I finally got my plate, I couldn’t even cut the fish with my knife. After I mangled a few bites, I gave up. Of course, my waiter offered to bring me another entrée, but it would mean I would miss the evening show. I was full enough so declined. But it was a disappointing dinner, even with my 25 percent discount. We’ll see what results my official complaint brings.

The next night was Halloween. The crew competed in a pumpkin-carving contest. A few dozen people showed up in the dining room and at the following party in full costume. They all had a great time, and my friend Diana won one of the costume awards (a bottle of champagne). I wore a small witch’s hat on a headband, enough to celebrate but not to add to my luggage. That is more my style.