Lisbon: Delightful Mix of Old and New – and Hills

Day 97, Grand World Voyage

Monday, April 10, 2023; Lisbon, Portugal.

I love Lisbon! Perhaps it is the familiarity – I’ve been here seven times – but I also find it beautiful. The city sits on the wide Tagus River, rising from the banks in steep hills. It is a combination of styles, from classical to Moorish. The buildings are covered in colorful tiles. Only Athens is an older European capital city.

Starting in the late 15^th century, Portugal looked outward, sending expeditions across the oceans. By the 16^th century, it was the European hub of commerce between Africa, India, the Far East and later, Brazil. The city acquired great riches by exploiting the trade in spices, slaves, sugar, textiles and other goods.

In 1755, the Great Lisbon Earthquake, along with accompanying tsunamis and fires, destroyed almost all of the city. Only the oldest section, the Alfama, was untouched.

For once we didn’t have an early arrival, but instead docked about 10 a.m. The downside was less time in the city (although we stayed until evening), but the advantage was the beautiful daylight sail up the Tagus River, past the old Belém Tower, the more modern Monument to the Discoveries, the 25 de Abril Bridge and the Christ the King statue on the far side of the river (inspired by Rio’s Christ the Redeemer).

Had it not been cool and breezy, I could have watched from my balcony. Instead, of course I went to the Crow’s Nest. We docked at the foot of the Alfama neighborhood. It is a labyrinth of narrow, twisting streets and alleys leading from the Castle of São Jorge at the top of the hill to the river. I usually like to take a taxi or tram to the top and walk down, but given my knee injury that wouldn’t happen. In fact, once again I stayed on the ship. From my balcony door I had a beautiful view.

This is our fifth consecutive port day, and many passengers are feeling the effects of long excursions and lots of walking. We’re starting to realize that this will be the norm for the rest of this cruise – until we start back across the Atlantic to Florida.

Eloise and Elaine took an excursion that explored Lisbon by coach, funicular, elevator, tram and foot. Even with all the transportation options, they put in a lot of steps on cobblestone streets and pathways. I understood why the tour posted the admonition: “Not advisable for guests using a wheelchair or for those with mobility limitations.”

To celebrate our Portuguese stop, tonight the Lido Buffet featured a Taste of Portugal. The highlight was the spread of Pasteis de Nata, a flaky crust tart filled with custard for which Lisbon is famous. Apparently, the ship put in a large order from shore, and mine tasted just as good as the ones I remember from 2011.

That year, Mom and I enjoyed them at Pasteis de Belēm, the original and most famous source. I’m sure they cost more now.

I had hoped to get my adjustable leg brace here, and one did show up. Unfortunately, it was a large and way too long for my leg. The medical staff said they would swap it out for a small and let me know, but I have yet to hear. I have a feeling it was too late in the day. I’m not pursuing the issue, because I think my bulky bandage may be more comfortable than the brace. They will let me know when the proper brace comes in, and regardless I will be instructed to put no weight on my right leg. I’m getting better at wheelchair driving.

Meanwhile, I had a pedicure with the best view!