Visiting the Birthplace of Beautiful Waterford Crystal

Day 13, 2023 North Atlantic Adventure

Wednesday, May 24, 2023; Dunmore East, Ireland.

After yesterday’s long lines waiting for a free shuttle bus to Cork, today went a little smoother, even though it was our first tender port of this cruise. It’s about a 20-minute drive from the small port of Dunmore East into Waterford, a city that was much larger than I expected. Once again, at the last minute the excursion department offered a shuttle bus into Waterford, but this time it cost $59 roundtrip and had to be pre-booked. My earlier-booked excursion into Waterford cost “just” $50 more, but it included a guided tour of the Waterford Factory and commentary from our guide (an American) during the drive.

In actuality, hardly any crystal is made in Waterford any more. It’s made in Slovenia, the Czech Republic, Hungary and Germany. After a bankruptcy about 15 years ago, the company is now owned by the Finnish company Fiskars (of the orange-handled scissors fame).

The main function of the Waterford facility is tours, although master cutters still make some specialty pieces here. We saw how the glass is blown and the different cutting and etching processes. It takes a five-year apprenticeship to become a cutter and another three years to achieve master cutter status.

I was particularly interested in the tour, as I had – and think I still have buried in storage – a nice collection of Waterford wine and water goblets, along with barware. My pattern, Avoca, was discontinued a number of years ago. Nowadays you can’t get a good price selling cut crystal, so I figure when I finally settle down somewhere, I’ll just use it – and enjoy using it – every day until it all breaks.

Our tour passed by several one-of-a-kind Waterford creations, including an old-fashioned telephone that my phone-company friends might find interesting (back in the day we called it a “trad rot,” for traditional rotary). There was a touching memorial piece in memory of Father Michal Judge and the others who died at the World Trade Center on 9/11/01.

I liked the five-piece holiday set in the attached Waterford store, but not enough to pay the €2,000 price listed. And besides, where would I put it? In storage with my other crystal?

We had time to explore the center of Waterford on our own, but found none of the pubs in the area opened until 5 p.m. It is rich in history, as the Vikings founded the city in 914. Reginald’s Tower is named in honor of Ragnall, the founder. I took a few minutes to make a rough sketch of the tower and the displayed typical Viking longboat that plied the River Suir, which flows through Waterford.

Back in port from the half-day tour, I enjoyed exploring the small port of Dunmore East. I’ve always liked “messing around” marinas and waterfronts, so entertained myself taking photos of colorful boats. murals and a memorial to sailors lost at sea. I thought our tour guide said the Fish Shack had the best chowder, but perhaps she said fish and chips. The little café didn’t have chowder, so I returned to the ship to enjoy a late lunch of goldfish crackers with my happy hour drink. I’ve moved on from gin and tonics to a Pisco Sour creation.

We’re still waiting for the new Starlink internet system. Late in the world cruise we were told they were in the process of installing it, so those of us continuing on expected it by now. In an Ask the Captain session a few days ago, I inquired about its status and learned the equipment is here, but the installation team won’t arrive until June 11. Then it will take another two weeks, or so he reported. Captain Frank will get off this Sunday (to be replaced I believe by Captain Friso from the first half of the world cruise), so he won’t be around to see if his prediction comes true. I’m hoping it goes active before I depart July 22.

We have three more port days (Torquay/Torbay, England; La Havre, France; and Dover, England), before this 16-day segment ends Sunday in Rotterdam. A number of passengers plan to stay on for the next segment, a circumnavigation of the English Isles.