Nothing To Do in Ringaskiddy? Go Shopping in Cork

Day 22, 2023 North Atlantic Adventure

Friday, June 2, 2023; Ringaskiddy/Cork, Ireland.

I complain about the Zuiderdam docking in Ringaskiddy – an industrial port with nothing – no shops, no pubs, no restaurants, no bus or train stations. And the picturesque scene of Cobh and its shops, pubs, restaurants and train station teases us from across the bay, with the Jewel of the Seas docked right in town. We docked there just a month ago. At least we had a beautiful sail past Cobh this morning.

But had we not docked here in Ringaskiddy, I wouldn’t have ventured into Cork, the second largest city in Ireland. Its city center is about a 20-minute drive from Ringaskiddy, and it is full of shops, pubs, restaurants, as well as museums, churches and beautiful riverside views.

When we docked here just 10 days ago, I took an excursion to Kinsale. Today I caught one of the first buses for Cork and explored it on my own. My only destination was Marks & Spencer, the British retailer founded in Leeds in 1884. While in Dublin in early May, I found a pair of jeans that fit just right – and were labeled about two sizes smaller than I usually wear (even accounting for the different sizing scheme in Britain). What woman wouldn’t buy them?

Today I was on a mission to buy a pair in a different color, and I bought the only pair I found in my size. I also found a cute knit dress and a linen shirt. Now that I am “living” on the ship with free laundry more than half the year, I will indulge in fabrics like linen that need ironing. But I need to think seriously about how I will fly home with all these new clothes.

I started out early this morning, leaving the ship just after we cleared customs. During our previous visit, the lines for the complementary shuttle buses provided by the city of Cork were long – both coming and going. This time the city promised to provide twice as many buses, and promptly at 8:30 this morning seven of them showed up.

My first objective (after a latte and chocolate croissant in a chocolate shop) was the Butter Museum, across the River Lee and, as it turns out, up a lot of steps and a steep path. I may need to get a map app that includes topographical lines, as mine didn’t give me any hint about the steep hill.

Huffing and puffing, I got to the Butter Museum, which appears to be sponsored by the Irish Dairy Council. The introductory film was heavy on the political history of the creation of the Kerry Gold butter brand and the expansion of the market for Irish butter, which is made from cows that eat grass and not feed grain. The small museum had displays of historical butter-making equipment.

Just across the street was the Church of St. Anne, whose tower and bells are a symbol of the city. Atop the tower’s weather vane is a large salmon, so of course I had to stop to sketch it. Tourists can actually ring the bells, but I had shopping to do.

Other than the need to climb the hill on the north side of the River Lee, Cork is an easy town to walk. Much of the city center is on an island, and you can duck off the busy main streets into small side streets, lanes and alleys. It’s all picturesque.

In addition to my M&S shopping excursion, I was on the hunt for a good Irish fish stew, and Quinlan’s Seafood Bar delivered, accompanied by a Killarney Blonde.

Just down the block was an art supply store, where I picked up some watercolor paper. I may try to participate in the 30×30 Direct Watercolor challenge this month. I thought I might give up 20 minutes of wasted iPhone time to practice a few techniques. We’ll see.

The line was long again for the return shuttle, as I think most people were ready to return to the ship at the same time. Fortunately, four buses showed up shortly after I arrived, and the line moved quickly.

At lunch I had been tempted to add an order of steamed mussels, but remembered that we have a reservation at the Pinnacle Grill tonight. It’s one of the specialty restaurants on the ship, and one perk of my loyalty status is two free dinners.

We had a nice, quiet meal. The only disappointment was the Clothesline Candied Bacon. We only ate part of one slice each. The bacon was extremely greasy and it had none of its typical maple flavoring. That’s probably a good thing – it probably lacks any redeeming nutritional value and I doubt I will order it again.

This morning, Captain Friso Kramer told us he is leaving the Zuiderdam today due to a family emergency. Captain Eric Barhorst joined us today to take command of the ship until we return to Rotterdam on June 11, when Capt. Friso will return. Capt. Eric (as he introduced himself) gave the evening report as we prepared to leave Ringaskiddy.