No White Cliffs, No Bluebirds Third Time at Dover

Days 31 and 32, 2023 North Atlantic Adventure

Sunday and Monday, June 11-12, 2023; Rotterdam, Netherlands, and Dover, England.

Capt. Friso warned us Sunday night that we might have heavy fog in Dover this morning, and he proved correct. My first view of the white cliffs was of a white fog engulfing us. As the day passed, the mist over the ship came and went, but it was mostly sunny ashore.

Having first only viewed Dover in mid-April from the cruise ship (still in a wheelchair following fractured kneecap), and then overachieving in late May by climbing the castle hill and then to the roof of the castle, today I left the city on an excursion to Canterbury. A brief rain shower passed over as we arrived, and then the day grew hot and humid.

We walked along the small river Stour (really a creek at this point), passing by guest inns, taverns and then tourist shops and restaurants in the city center. Every time we turned a corner we had a different view of the spires and towers of Canterbury Cathedral.

Canterbury Cathedral is the mother church of the Anglican Church, and last month it was the Archbishop of Canterbury who placed the crown on the head of King Charles III. Founded in 597, it also is known as the murder site of Archbishop Thomas Becket in 1170 by followers of King Henry II.

Our guide led us on a slow tour of the exterior, describing the various architectural styles used over the centuries.

The inside was full of quiet tourists and a production crew setting up for an event in the evening. I’m not one to visit every church and cathedral during my travels, but if you want to visit one, this should be on your short list.

Sunday was the second of our three stops in Rotterdam, each marking the end of one cruise and beginning of another. I always do a little happy dance in my head when I see all the suitcases in the hall the night before we arrive, knowing I am not leaving. My day will come, but not now.

I only ventured to the end of the pier to meet friends for lunch at the Hotel New York. In a city of mostly new and very modern architecture, it’s refreshing to see an old building. It’s special because it formerly was the headquarters for the Holland America Line.

This was the third time in a year that I’ve seen our friend Darja, who lives about an hour outside Rotterdam. She and her parents, who were good friends with our parents, met my sisters and me in Amsterdam in April. Today her brother Jascha joined us. I haven’t seen him in 14 years, but recognized him immediately.

We had a lovely lunch on the terrace (beautiful sunny day) and caught up on our lives. They brought me stroop wafels, a Dutch treat I enjoy with my coffee. And Darja delivered new sketchbooks. I had not packed enough so had some shipped to her.

Unfortunately, their sister Marielle’s plan to fly back to the Netherlands and join us fell through. She works for a migration agency connected to the United Nations and was sent to Colombia to help prepare for migrants to the United States who may be kept there for processing. If she is still there in late December perhaps my sisters and I can visit, as Categena, Colombia, is on our holiday cruise itinerary. Marielle sent us beautiful Dutch painted tiles.

My cabin window (I switched from a more expensive balcony cabin in mid-May) overlooked the River Maas, so I missed the slight commotion on the dock as we were preparing to leave. A few demonstrators protested the ship’s use of fossil fuels, and fellow cruiser Barbara Haden took some photographs. Their activity didn’t delay our departure, as that was caused by the loading of vital supplies that arrived late.

After Dover (my last English port of this adventure), we head for Norway. Already the sun is setting well after 10 p.m. and rising around 4 a.m.