A Rare Beautiful Day to Tour the Chiloé Archipelago
Day 25, 2023 Grand South America and Antarctica
Tuesday, Oct. 31, 2023; Castro, Chiloé Island, Chile
“Yesterday it hailed.” Thus today’s guide greeted us, repeatedly saying how lucky we are to have a crisp sunny day without a cloud in the sky. Not to say the day didn’t start out darn cold. But this sun isn’t typical for Castro or the Chiloé archipelago, which has more than 130 inches of rain a year.
What a change from Coquimbo, Chile, to the north, which has had no rain this year. It’s easy to forget how long Chile is – add 22 miles to its length and you would match the width of the continental United States. Or the distance from Lisbon to Moscow.
Castro is the fourth oldest city in Chile, founded in the mid 1500s by the Spanish. Of course, indigenous people lived here prior, but our tour guides don’t always mention that. Even so, because these islands are separated from Chile’s mainland, they developed their own folklore, customs and even architecture. Today’s tour would focus on the latter, and specifically the wooden churches of these islands that now are UNESCO world heritage sites.
Wood was the available building material. When Spanish priests brought with them building specifications involving stone, wood was substituted. The first church we visited was built as an upside-down boat. You do what you know.
Wood shingles also are found gracing not only the roofs, but the sides of many homes and the interiors of the churches.
The great tidal differences also helped lead to the use of stilt houses, and rows of these colorful palafitos are being gentrified from shanties to upscale galleries and shops.
A long-promised bridge connecting the archipelago to mainland Chile has yet to materialize, so locals use ferries to span the gap, as well as to travel between the islands. Our tour buses drove right on the small ferry for a six-minute crossing to the next island, where we would see the oldest remaining wooden church.
The tour ended with a local folkloric show, along with a wonderful snack of ceviche and – of course – pisco sour!
Back on the ship, preparations for Halloween were well under way. Different departments competed in a pumpkin carving contest, and various costumes appeared at dinner and especially at the Halloween dance later in the World Stage theater.
The most spectacular sight tonight was of Mount Corcovado and the surrounding Andes Mountains at sunset.
What an interesting post. We learned enough for a book!
I haven’t commented on your posts for a long while and thought, after reading this one, that I would “drop you a line” as they used to say, to tell you I enjoy your words and photos very much. My travels have never taken me to South America – your impressions and information are most interesting. And……….your sketches are great. You’ve got talent!
Loving this vicarious travel. See you in June (or before). Some day we need to get you into the river to “play” with the Manatees. Mid summer best, when the constant 72-74 degrees of the river feels glorious (usually high 90s outside)
What a special post Jo! A,spectacular day like this would make the price of the cruise worthwhile. Just loved the photos of the wooden churches, and the insight you gained. You’ve got us all longing to be with you. I must admit a little envy creeps in!
Cómo andas con tu español?
How is it going with your Spanish?
And where are you on to Next??
Your friend in Florida, Jeanie