Water Water Everywhere Month Later on Amazon River

Days 10 & 11, 2024 Grand World Voyage

Friday and Saturday, Jan. 12-13, 2024; Alter Do Chao and Boca da Valeria, Brazil

What a difference a month makes. When I was on the Amazon River in December, it was touch-and-go as to whether we could even cruise up the river due to the record-setting low water level. Now the water level is much higher, dramatically illustrated in Alter Do Chāo yesterday.

In December, we traipsed over a floating dock, across two boats and then another floating dock before reaching the sandy shore. Today it was only one floating dock.

Then passengers waded through water just up to their shins to get to Ilha do Amor (Love Island), a small island with thatched huts and beautiful sandy beaches.

Today required a boat ride. Look closely for the two poles in the water – a month ago they were on land.

When I observed this change on Facebook, my friend Bob Voorneveld posted a 2006 photo of water on Ilha do Amor up to the top of the biggest thatched hut.

My sister Elaine indulged my constant comparisons as we walked through the small resort town. The piranha earrings I saw earlier obviously were popular – no vendors had any left on this day.

Eloise ventured off on a jungle excursion.

Today I intended to go ashore in Boca da Valeria, I really did. When I casually mentioned at breakfast that I might not, my friend Monika called me out for being complacent (just as I challenged friends to do at the end of my holiday cruise blog).

This is the one Amazon River port that we missed last month on the Zaandam. Kimberly, our cruise director, described it as our opportunity to see a typical small village like the hundreds stretching along the river. It has a school, a church, a few houses and perhaps 100 residents, with many more people living in the surrounding area.

But then an hour or so after we arrived, I saw what looked like a long line of passengers waiting for a tender ride back to the ship. And here I stayed. Only to later learn that it was a line of local residents greeting passengers. My sisters supplied the photos.

Reports from those who went ashore varied, but the general consensus was it is an interesting stop for a short visit.

More than one person mentioned the constant attempts by locals to sell photos of themselves or their “pets,” which were not pets at all, but sloths, turtles and other creatures.

One friend said she was torn. She loved cuddling a sloth, but knew such behavior isn’t good for the animals that can never return to the wild.

Only a few cruise ships stop in Boca da Valeria each year, and I’m sure the local villagers cherish the opportunity to make some money. The going rate is $1 per photo. The guest services desk did a brisk business of changing larger bills for dollar bills, I hear.

We’ve kept busy on the ship while sailing on the Amazon River. This evening cruise director Kimberly hosted the Oi Brazil team for a cocktail chat. We learned about this diverse group of singers, dancers and specialists who now make their homes not just in Brazil but also in England and Spain. Some started their lives shining shoes in the streets of Rio and found their way out through Brazilian songs and dances. They certainly don’t lack energy. I sailed with many of this team last month during the two weeks we spent cruising Brazil on the Zaandam, and it is fun to see them again.

This afternoon after the Zuiderdam left Boca de Valeria, elaborately decorated cakes filled every serving line in the Lido, first for photography and then for eating. “For Cakes’ Sake” is a special Holland America event reserved for grand cruises. The dozens of cakes, cupcakes, eclairs and other desserts were a feast for the eyes, and the servers dressed for the grand occasion.

I limited myself to a few bites of a strawberry shortcake cake and a chocolate martini. Even though tonight was a dressy dinner with a special menu, the dining room looked a little sparse. I think more than a few passengers were suffering a food coma.