Kyoto Offers Glimpse Into Lives of Shoguns, Geishas

Day 59, 2024 Grand World Voyage

Saturday, March 2, 2024; Kyoto, Japan.

Kobe, like many Japanese ports, goes out of its way to welcome cruise ships. As we sailed in this morning, a fire boat welcomed us with streams of water that changed from clear to yellow, green, pink and finally purple. I recall the same welcome six and half years ago. The cruise pier is conveniently located near the city center, with a train station right above it and city shuttles to take us to nearby sites.

We are docking overnight, giving us two full days to explore the ring of cities around Osaka Bay. Today our cruise agency tour headed 90 minutes northeast to Kyoto, Japan’s capital from 794 to 1868, when the Meiji empire moved the capital to Edo, renamed Tokyo. Today many consider Kyoto to be the cultural capital of Japan, and of course it is a major tourist destination. It is my second visit here, and I realize I have taken almost the same photos again.

Even though we are here a month before the high tourist season of cherry tree blossoms, we found heavy crowds at each of our stops in this city of 1.5 million people (and 3.8 million in the metropolitan area).

The biggest crowds by far were at our first stop – the Kinkaku-ji Temple, or Temple of the Golden Pavilion. Initially built as a villa by a shogun in 1397, it was later converted into a temple, with the top two stories covered in pure gold foil. Visitors pass through a garden, turning for our first breathtaking view over a pond. I was lucky to catch a giant cormorant drying its wings in the breeze.

After working through the crowd for photographs, we wound our way on paths around and up the hill behind the pavilion, where pools, waterfalls, a small temple and shops awaited.

Taking our guide’s advice, I bought packages of candied cashews and sweet and spicy beans, apparently not to be found elsewhere. So did just about everyone else on the tour.

Our lunch was another buffet, a combination of Japanese and American food. My favorite was the freshly fried shrimp tempura and the Dango parfait of sweet Japanese dumplings for dessert.

Snow flurries began to fly through the air, but didn’t last too long. It is hard to believe that just six weeks ago we were at the equator, sailing up the Amazon River. I dug out the coat, hat and gloves I had packed away after being in Antarctica in November.

As if it wasn’t cold enough, we had to take our shoes off for the next visit – Ninomaru Palace in Nijo Castle. The first shogun of the Edo period – Tokugawa Ieyasu, lived here. We passed through cypress wood hallways encircling the various rooms where ancient visitors waited. As we walked in our stocking feet, the floors chirped and squeaked. Called “nightingale floors,” they were built to prevent enemies and even ninjas from stealthily approaching.

No photographs are allowed inside, but this website has photos showing the exquisite artwork. We could photograph the elaborate gate and the extensive gardens, where they creatively use straw to protect the plants from the cold.

Next was a walking tour of Gion, one of the best-known geisha districts in Japan. It is full of old buildings and narrow streets. Interesting bamboo structures strive to keep dogs from relieving themselves against the wooden houses.

Just like in Tokyo, most of the women we saw in kimonos were tourists renting them for the day from one of the many shops. As we walked through the old neighborhoods with their guest houses and tea rooms, our guide pointed out one geisha, or perhaps a maiko (novice geisha), walking quickly by. I almost missed getting a picture. It’s easy to tell the tourist from the real thing.

We ended our long day, once back in Kobe on the ship, with a well-deserved soak in the hot tub.

Yesterday morning, after sailing into Suruga Bay at the foot of Mount Fuji, the captain called off our intended port call at Omaezaki due to high winds. I think it is the first missed port of this cruise, which is amazing after two months.

The skies were overcast early, but by late morning the clouds parted enough to allow stunning views of Fuji off the stern. I ventured out to the railing and was afraid I wouldn’t make it back in the strong winds. The wonderful crew members were helping passengers. I did get my shot.