Shanghai Still Ranks High Despite Distant Cruise Terminal

Day 65, 2024 Grand World Voyage

Friday, March 8, 2024; Shanghai, China.

When I first visited Shanghai in 2017, I wrote “what Shanghai does have in spades is a spectacular waterfront, and the MS Amsterdam docked front and center.” I couldn’t believe my experience would be topped, but it was just a year later, when I had the stunning view of the skyline right off my verandah.

I knew from the get-go that this year would be different. The Zuiderdam is too large to sail up the Huangpu River into the center of Shanghai. We are docked at a new cruise terminal in Baoshan on the Yangtze River, where it takes a shuttle bus almost an hour to reach Shanghai’s center.

But I was determined to not let that keep me from reacquainting myself with this wonderful city, so we set off on an early shuttle, bundled in layers. The forecast was for the 40s and low 50s, but the wind managed to cut through a haze that blocked the morning sun.

Shanghai’s famous Bund is a mile-long walkway with the Huangpu River on one side and blocks of stately buildings on the other. Looking across the river, it’s hard to believe that 20 years ago rice paddies lined the opposite shore. Today this Pudong district sports one of the most iconic skylines in the world, with the distinctive Oriental Pearl Tower, the Shanghai World Financial Center (better known as the “bottle opener”), the Shanghai Tower (the tallest building in China) and the Jin Mao Tower.

Immediately I noticed the lack of boat traffic on the river. During my past visits, barges and cargo boats streamed up and down the river all day as if it were a six-lane highway. At night, tourist boats and dinner cruises lit from stem to stern slowly moved by our docked ship. Today we only saw a handful of commercial boats pass by. I haven’t found an answer yet as to why.

We moved off the wide elevated walkway to the sidewalk below where a statue of Shanghai’s first mayor, Chen Yi, looks down on block after block of buildings that would fit into any European city center. At one time this was the center of the foreign establishment in Shanghai. Nanking Road, now limited to pedestrians, leads away from the river and is lined with a combination of high-end designer stores and souvenir ships.

I had a destination in mind. The Press is a café and restaurant in the former home of Shun Bao newspaper, one of China’s longest-running daily newspapers (1872-1949). Its storefront windows sport quotes about the free press – a seeming anachronism in today’s China, but vitally important to this former reporter and editor.

We split a delicious pumpkin and nectarine salad, followed by dessert and accompanied by lattes. I inquired about buying one of the reporter shirts worn by the servers, but the answer was the same as when I asked in 2018: “Sorry, we are sold out.” I may just have to have my own made.

By the time we caught a shuttle back to the ship, we had walked almost five miles, collecting a hodgepodge of photos along the way. I know our Indonesian crew likes any snack items that are hot and spicy, so I hope the “numb & spicy hot pot” Lay’s chips I bought for our cabin stewards fit the bill.

Maybe the Huangpu River ship traffic has moved to the Yangtze River, where we docked. As we sailed out in the late afternoon, we trailed a pilot boat that carved a path through the many ships and barges constantly moving up and down the river.

Special events continue on the Zuiderdam, especially on our sea days. A couple of nights ago was “Barn Dance” night with a country theme along the Music Walk venues. Sometimes the ship’s interpretation of themes is interesting. Tomas, a member of the entertainment staff, announced a country theme for the evening’s trivia – in that every answer would have the name of a country in it. It adds to the fun.

Our special Chicken Fried Steak entrée at dinner came with dark beef gravy, not the traditional white creamy gravy. Thank goodness I ordered it on the side!

A group of four singers from Spain have been popular. They are like Il Divo in that they are classically trained and combine opera with pop. Our cruise director hosted them for Cocktails with Kimberly one evening, and they said they chose the name “The Four Stations” because it sounded a little like the Four Seasons.