Dutch Harbor’s Calm Seas Far Cry from “Deadliest Catch” Storms

Day 10, 2024 Ultimate Alaska

Tuesday, June 18, 2024; Dutch Harbor, Alaska.

It’s rare for a cruise ship to stop in Dutch Harbor on the island of Unalaska in the Aleutian Islands. It is sometimes on Holland America’s cruises between Japan and the U.S. West Coast, including the Grand Asia cruises I took in 2017 and 2018. Bad weather in 2017 prevented our stop, so I figured we had a 50/50 chance this year.

The weather cooperated, and the seas were calm. We arrived at noon amid some fog, which lifted as we approached land and what is reported to be the busiest fishing port in the United States, evidenced by the hundreds of refrigerated containers stacked in the harbor. They looked like several-story buildings from a distance.

No surprise that there isn’t cruise-ship level tourist infrastructure here. Holland America didn’t offer any shore excursions, explaining that local operators didn’t meet its operational standards (I’m guessing an insurance issue). Passengers who a few months ago booked the few independent tours available had good reports.

Before arrival, we got confusing information about options for getting the two miles from the dock to town. In 2018 I wrote about waiting in line for one of three school bus shuttles, but they weren’t available this year. Our options were to walk along the shoulder of the flat road or to buy $50 tickets for vans that would serve as hop-on hop-off rides.

As it turned out, a number of taxi vans outside the gate offered $5 one-way rides to the near side of town. From the Safeway and hotel it was a short walk to the Museum of the Aleutians. My sisters chose that option, but by the time I got off the ship, no taxis were waiting so I walked the two miles, figuring it was good exercise.

Eagles were common around the museum, including two that posed in the grass nearby. Sea otters played in a pond and wildflowers bloomed everywhere.

We roamed the aisles of the Alaska Ship Supply store, browsing the t-shirts, weather gear, groceries and other supplies. Dramamine filled an entire endcap.

Stacks of large crab pots (really cages) were everywhere, not currently in use because overfishing has reduced the Bering Sea crab stock so fishing is prohibited for a second year. I’m not sure what fishing the popular Deadliest Catch television series is following this year.

The curiously named Norwegian Rat Saloon served up the best halibut fish and chips I’ve had this trip, along with a cold local beer. I was surprised there weren’t more cruise ship passengers there, but apparently a lot of people stayed on board, not aware there was a $5 option to get to town. We were easily able to flag down a taxi for the return trip.

Yesterday was a busy day at sea, with lots of options to fill our time. I’m enjoying the pace of the past week, with alternating port days and sea days. Maybe I’m getting lazy (certainly not old!), but four or five (or more) port days in a row wear me out.

One highlight was Cake Me Away! It is a buffet of decorated cakes and may be featured on most Holland America cruises. (Sometimes it’s hard to tell what is exclusive to a grand or a legendary cruise). I didn’t even look, as cakes aren’t really my thing, but my sister Eloise shared her photograph. She notes that her favorite is the concord cake, in the foreground.

Sea days are busy, with presenters offering talks about subjects such as wildlife, geology and World War II history in Alaska. Other group activities include pickleball, tai chi, cooking demonstrations and wine tastings. Classes range from line dancing, origami folding, bridge, crocheting and mixology to tech for travelers. Trivia is ever popular. I miss most of these activities, spending more time writing, reading and occasionally painting.