Final Japanese Port Combines Garden Painting, Unique Ramen Experience

Day 34, 2024 Majestic Japan

Saturday, Oct. 5, 2024; Naha, Okinawa, Japan

As much as I like discovering new places, there is something comforting about returning to familiar ports. Today’s stop in Naha, on the island of Okinawa, was just one of those days, combining a new experience with a repeat.

Okinawa and the nearby Ishigaki, where we stopped yesterday, are part of the Ryukyu Islands, geographically and culturally closer to Taiwan and China than to the main islands of Japan. This history can be seen in the many pairs of shesa, or guardian lions, throughout the area. As I walked from the port toward the main street heading into town, two tall shesa statues greeted me. Every souvenir shop sold hundreds of pairs in every size.

Earlier this year, I took a ship’s excursion to Shurijo Castle Park, Shikinaen Garden and finally to Kokusai-Dori Street, lined with souvenir shops, bars and restaurants. Today I walked the mile into town from the pier, but stopped along the way for a couple of delightful hours in the Fukushuen Garden to sketch and paint. It is a traditional Chinese garden, built to celebrate the sister-city relationship between Naha and Fuzhou in China.

In the center is a pond filled with colorful koi, who delight visitors who stop to feed them.

I sketched while standing and then toured the garden. While sketching I go into a bit of a zone, and then find I can hardly move after standing too long. My tour of the garden was a nice break, and then I settled on a shaded bench to paint.

This trip has taught me some tricks and tips, such as the need to bring my backpack instead of the smaller crossbody bag I bought specially for this trip. It is cute, but definitely too small.

The possible rain held off, but the humidity was high in this subtropical climate so I had to wait until I was back on the ship to finish the painting by adding white gouache paint for the waterfall.

Next it was off to Ichiron, the ramen noodle restaurant I visited in February. As a rule I try not to repeat experiences, but this one was so different that I had to go back. After ordering (in English) at a lobby kiosk and then a short wait, I was escorted to a narrow booth, with partitions separating me from the close neighbors and a bamboo blind in my face. Shortly someone raised the blind and served my bowl of ramen. All without any need to speak.

I hadn’t remembered the ramen being quite so good last time, but I think it was because I ordered it with a little more spice and heat today. Perfect! Even the toilet was a delightful surprise.

A city bus took me back to the cruise pier, where we passed through Japanese immigration, as required for our departure. It’s hard to say goodbye to Japan.

Next will be our real challenge: 11 days at sea until we reach Honolulu, Hawaii. From the talk around the ship, it will be the longest sea stretch for most passengers. My record is 15 days between Barbados and Madeira, Portugal, 30 years ago. I have a long to-do list of things to get done while at sea, and will probably be happy if I finish half of them. Somehow, it’s always easier to sit and chat or read than to update my financial records or organize photos.