Every Turn in Marrakesh’s Magical Medina Leads to Hidden Gems

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Day 12, 2024 Ultimate Mediterranean

Wednesday, Nov. 20, 2024; Casablanca/Marrakesh, Morocco

Is Marrakesh really mystical?

My generation grew up humming along to Marrakesh Express (thanks to songwriter Graham Nash and Crosby, Stills and Nash). I had vague images of mysterious markets filled with the danger of snake charmers, the sensuality of belly dancers and the luxury of silk fabrics and shiny jewelry. Shady characters would disappear down narrow winding streets while hippies and bohemians laze away days smoking hashish and who-knows-what-else through exotic pipes.

Today I found all that, as well as a city of a million people. Its modern buildings and hotels sport the logos of global brands. Horse-drawn carts mosey through a stream of luxury cars and tour buses. Motorcycles and scooters dart everywhere, paying no attention to traffic laws. “Cellular tower” palm trees hide among the real thing. Men in traditional Berber attire talk on their smartphones.

Today’s 12-hour-plus excursion to Marrakesh was compensation for me. In 2023 a fall resulting in a fractured kneecap canceled my planned three-day overland Marrakesh adventure. This time our tour left the port of Casablanca before sunrise for the three-hour-plus bus ride and returned well after dark. We passed lots of desert, foothills and the occasional Berber village along the 160-mile ride.

In between, we spent the day walking in the medina, or ancient old district also called the Red City due to its 12th-century walls of red sandstone. Our guide said it would take a month of such days to see all of the medina, enclosed by 12 miles of walls that have 200 towers and 20 decorated gates.

The Koutoubia Minaret, at 253 feet, is the tallest structure in Marrakesh and was our first stop. Unlike the larger Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, this mosque isn’t open to tourists.

We walked busy sidewalks lined with retail stores and rooftop cafes to the Dar El Bacha, a former palace and now a museum. Both it and the Bahia Palace we visited later featured traditional riads, or open central garden courtyards. Carved wood ceilings lead to stucco walls carved with intricate Arabic inscriptions and intricate tile patterns. And did I mention friendly cats?

I wished we had more time to browse the many small stalls along the narrow pathways through the souks, or bazaars, but we walked on, dodging the many motorcycles and scooters weaving through narrow lanes designed for foot traffic.

By the time we reached our lunch destination, we quickly settled on low couches for a meal of delicious bread dipped in our choice of carrot, pumpkin, eggplant, lentil and tomato sauces. The main course was grilled chicken, beef and couscous cooked in a tajine. Almond cookies and mint tea ended the meal. We dared not drink too much of the delicious red wine, knowing we needed our wits about us when we returned to dodging traffic on the narrow pathways. While we ate, a dancer entertained us by balancing a tray of candles on her head, followed by a more traditional belly dance.

Our tour ended with some free time at Jemaa el-Fnaa, a huge square full of stalls covered by umbrellas. Vendors are joined by snake charmers, monkey trainers, musicians and dancing troupes all seeking attention and tips of Moroccan dirham (local currency).

After making a quick circle, I settled on a restaurant patio for a sweet coffee and a few minutes for a quick sketch. Watercolor will have to come later.

After the return bus ride (I watched two episodes of a downloaded Netflix documentary on my smartphone), we rejoined the ship. While we were away, Capt. Eric von der Wal and his wife left the ship, replaced by Capt. Paul Adams for the rest of our cruise. Across the port I could see the laser pointing east toward Mecca from Casablanca’s Hassan II Mosque.

So what makes Marrakesh mystical? In a few short hours we experienced this crossroads of cultures, rich with Berber influences, new-to-me sounds and smells, and a peak into a northern African atmosphere. I can’t wait to come back for a longer visit.