Whoever Says It Rarely Rains in Seville Was Wrong Today
Day 34, 2024 Ultimate Mediterranean
Thursday, Dec. 12, 2024; Cadiz/Seville, Spain.
This morning I was torn. With a forecast of steady rain all day, do I go to Seville as planned with my original intention of sketching and painting there? I have never been to Seville, and surprisingly the nearby port of Cadiz is not on a single itinerary for next year’s three months in the Mediterranean, so I won’t be returning soon.
Or do I bag the booked transfer for another time and spend the day in Cadiz, a port I have visited twice before but never explored? It looked inviting in the pre-dawn light as we docked right in town.
I went to Seville, despite the rain that promised no sketch opportunities. It’s a beautiful city – even in the rain – and I’ll be better prepared for next time. This time I’ll just have to paint later from my photographs.
Seville is a sister city to Kansas City, where I spent my teens and 20s. Much of the Kansas City Plaza reflects the architecture of Seville, which gets rave reviews by travelers. And Seville’s central area, with its huge cathedral, palace, museums and other sites, is easily walkable.
Being just a bus transfer, we lacked a great guide to put the city’s history, architecture and culture into perspective, bringing it to life. In lieu of that, I had researched the city online and found some suggested walking tours.
The bus dropped us near the Hispalis Fountain, just a couple of blocks from the Catedral de Sevilla.
It is surrounded by the national archives, the Alcazar royal palace and La Giralda, a former minaret tower.
My all-weather coat stood up well to the light and consistent rain, although my umbrella didn’t really keep my backpack dry. I was glad my sketchpad – packed in hopes of better weather — was in a plastic bag.
It would have been a good day to stay inside touring some of the sites, but instead I explored the area on foot, juggling my umbrella while trying to take pictures. Nearby the Barrio de Santa Cruz, or Jewish quarter of old Seville, drew me into its maze of narrow walkways and alleys. Today it is full of small restaurants, boutique hotels and souvenir shops with a heavy flamenco influence.
Just as Sorrento in Italy is known for its limes, Seville is famous for its oranges. Trees with bitter orange fruit are everywhere – spreading their aroma and color along the walkways and squares.
The naranjas are perhaps most famous for marmalade. Some small jars (orange ginger and orange fig) made it into my backpack, with the contents destined for my breakfast toast and bagels during the rest of the cruise.
Before I left the area, I enjoyed a coffee con leche and one of the best croissants I’ve ever had. It was nice to warm up and relax in the small restaurant.
Next, I headed toward the Guadalquivir River, or more precisely, a canal from the nearby river. I passed by the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla, or Seville’s bullring. It’s not the season for bullfighting, and I wouldn’t have attended anyway, but the site is impressive even from the outside.
As I walked down the river, I passed by the Torre del Oro and a replica of the Nao Victoria, Ferdinand Magellan’s vessel that completed the first circumnavigation. This replica repeated the journey between 2004 and 2006. (Having circled the globe twice, I much prefer the comforts of today’s cruise ships.)
A few more blocks along a wide boulevard brought me to the Parque de Maria Luisa, a large park that would be fun to explore on a sunny day. I headed to the Plaza de España in the park, a huge half-circle building built for an exposition. It features towers, tiled alcoves representing each of Spain’s provinces and a moat with bridges decorated with tiles.
As our bus headed out of Seville, the rain stopped and the clouds disappeared, leaving us with sunny blue skies that will tempt me to return to this wonderful city.
And just like that, our Mediterranean tour has ended. We have eight sea days to cross the Atlantic. I’ll need all of them to catch up on my painting.
Wishing you calm seas and time to enjoy with friends and painting! I hope you share a few more sketches.
Seville is gorgeous in any weather. But those who know and love the Rossini opera Barber of Seville are well aware that it definitely rains in Seville!
I can tell you are enjoying this trip and I am certainly enjoying your recent posts.
Lila
What a beautiful city to explore and which to spend your last day ashore. The architecture is wonderful. I’ve really enjoyed “coming” along on this cruise with you. There were so many places that were new and exciting. I’m looking forward to your next adventure!
Safe travels across the Atlantic.
Susan
Loved seeing all of your pics and descriptions since we ended up not getting to stop there on this last cruise. I hope we will get there next year.
Thanks for the tour! Loved it!
So enjoyed your travelogue! Thank you. Loved the comments, too!
Many thanks for the Seville preview Jo. We will be there next year on the P2P courtesy of a port visit to Cadiz. Last year in Cadiz we did an excursion to Jerez de la Frontera for some sherry tasting, and in the afternoon were treated to an Easter parade – it was Easter Sunday after all, as you will recall from that visit. Then, after talking to others who did excursions to Seville, we decided we needed to get there. Now this will happen, via the “Seville on Foot & Tapas” excursion.
Good luck getting up to date with your painting!
Your descriptions and photos make me yearn for the Mediterranean! And talk about a ‘target-rich’ area for painting subjects… maybe even a lifetime worth. Enjoy your transatlantic, and we’ll see you in a few weeks!