Holy Processions Add to Spanish Art of Strolling Along Promenades

Days 96-97, 2025 Grand World Voyage

Thursday and Friday, April 10-11, 2025; Gibraltar and Cartagena, Spain.

Perhaps it is a Spanish tradition. Or Mediterranean. If so, it is one I could embrace. It’s the tradition of going out for a city stroll, sometimes after mass and sometimes just for a beautiful afternoon.

I first discovered the tradition in Alicante, Spain, during a 2013 cruise and wrote about it in a 2021 flashback. We will visit Alicante in a couple of weeks, and I’ll look forward to its expansive tiled promenade, considered one of the loveliest in Spain.

Today, once I walked into the city of Cartagena, Spain, and saw throngs of locals milling about, I quickly realized this was much more than families out for a midday stroll. It is the Friday before Semana Santa (Holy Week), and the beginning of a week of solemn processions leading up to Easter Sunday.

Almost immediately I first heard and then saw what I later learned was the Marrajos Brotherhood, representing Marine Infantry soldiers of the 18^th Century. They carry their traditional tools of saw, axe, pick axe and shovel.

Their silent march was accompanied by drums and later horns. Farther back in the procession came young boys (with men walking alongside to help them stay in formation.)

At one corner the marchers executed a tricky pattern to make the turn.

Throughout the afternoon, I saw remnants of the procession on side streets. Meanwhile, hundreds (thousands?) of white chairs began to line the pedestrian streets and lane. The major procession would start at 3 a.m. tomorrow.

Because of the holy season, many shops were closed, with the exception of those catering to tourists. I did manage to find an open pharmacy where I replenished my Mucinex, which I hope will last until the end of my chest cold.

I found time to sit on a bench and sketch one of the city scenes.

Interspersed among the pedestrian walkways, sidewalk cafes and shops is the occasional Roman ruin. In addition, many old facades are reinforced by steel, with nothing else behind them. Apparently, it is too expensive to rebuild and laws prohibit tearing down the historic building fronts.

Back in the large square near the cruise pier, I joined a group of friends who were enjoying wine and beer after their walking tapas tour. I think we saw everyone on the ship pass by, from the captain to my favorite bartender to groups of fellow passengers.

Yesterday I returned to Gibraltar, where I made a major gin purchase last December. The bottles remain in my suitcase – I guess I will take them back to my sister’s house. Once again, I walked into town and the main street, lined with pubs, cafes, shops and the occasional church or government house. It’s a mixture of old city walls and new apartment buildings.

Most of my fellow passengers who had not been to Gibraltar went to the “rock,” where they toured caves and military installations and looked for the Macaque monkeys. I heard of at least two instances of passengers who were bit by the monkeys when they tried to touch a baby (and went off to the hospital for treatment).

I bought underwear at Marks & Spencers. I’ve heard it’s a great source, so I got a package of five pair (just £15), which I will test until I return to Europe this summer for possible future purchases. Such is the excitement of living at sea.

I passed Hotel Manager Henk and his wife Cristal walking their tandem bike down the busy pedestrian street, as well as a bride heading out for what I presume was a photo session.

On the ship before I went ashore the staff was preparing for a ceremony with local officials marking the Zuiderdam’s first call into the port of Gibraltar.